Marine Hall Mercantile storefront, 177 Essex Street. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo by Kathy Tarantola/PEM.
The PEM Shop has a few exciting collaborations coming up: one with an award-winning Salem jeweler to design exhibition-inspired pieces, and one with a vintage clothier who hand-selects treasures from the 1930s through the 1970s. We caught up with PEM’s busy Director of Merchandising, Victor Oliveira, to answer some questions about how these exciting new directions relate to PEM's brand, as well as sustainability and support for local artists.
Q: Let’s start with the jewelry commission. How did this project come about? What is the creative process between the museum and the designer? And why are you excited about this commission?
A: This special jewelry commission from Salem-based designer Jenni Stuart was sparked by a conversation following the recent Salem Main Streets fashion show at PEM. We’re recreating some of the family heirlooms on view in PEM’s Ropes Mansion, including mourning jewelry, pieces that contain a lock of hair or are made in black stones to honor a wearer’s loss and grief. Jenni was a natural fit to create these reproductions of gorgeous 19th-century designs, as her intricate work in fine metals beautifully reflects the craftsmanship of the originals.
Unlike most museum store reproductions, which are often made with non-precious metals and based solely on photographs, this collaboration took a much more intimate and hands-on approach. Jenni and her team visited the Ropes Mansion to study the pieces up close — right in the house where they were originally worn. With insights from PEM’s curators about the objects and their owners, the experience was both creatively and emotionally powerful. You could feel the excitement in the room; after all, we were standing in PEM’s own time capsule home and connecting with history in a truly special way.
The resulting jewelry will be available later this year in both the PEM Shop and Jenni Stuart’s Salem shop — offering a rare opportunity to wear a piece of history, reimagined with heart, skill and local artistry.
Q: Jenni Stuart just won Best New Business Person of the Year in the small business category at the Salem Chamber Awards Dinner, held here at PEM. How does working with local business owners strengthen PEM’s commitment to sustainability and to community outreach?
A: We were thrilled to see Jenni win. It’s a well-deserved honor that highlights not only her talent but also the strength and creativity of Salem’s local business community. Partnering with small-batch makers is a core part of PEM’s ongoing commitment to sustainability and community engagement. When people think of sustainability in retail, they often focus on materials: Is it recyclable? Compostable? Responsibly sourced? While those questions matter, our approach goes deeper.
Sustainability also means who made it. Is it ethically produced? What’s the story behind the object? By working directly with small-batch makers, we’re able to visit their studios, understand their creative processes and ensure that every piece we offer supports not just sustainable materials, but sustainable livelihoods. Knowing the maker — and sharing that connection with our visitors — adds meaning and transparency to what we offer in the PEM Shop. It means that each purchase directly supports artisans, their families and the communities they’re part of. It’s not just about what the product is made of; it’s about who it's made by and the shared values that bring it to life.
We’re proud to celebrate Jenni’s achievement and to continue fostering partnerships that create more thoughtful, sustainable and community-centered retail experiences.
Q: Sticking with jewelry, we have an exhibition-inspired fall collection coming up. How did that collaboration come about, and what has that creative process been like?
A: We are over the moon about a new jewelry capsule collection in celebration of Andrew Gn: Fashioning the World, opening this fall at PEM. This exhibition showcases the breathtaking work of Andrew Gn — a visionary Singaporean designer, color virtuoso and master of detail — whose exquisite garments blend global influences with couture-level craftsmanship. To accompany this exhibition, we’ve partnered with North Shore jewelry designer Jade Gedeon of We Dream in Colour to create a collection inspired by Gn’s dramatic and poetic aesthetic. As Jade put it, this is “the dreamiest of dream projects” — and it truly is.
The idea for this collaboration began when I was studying Andrew Gn’s runway photography. What immediately stood out was the jewelry: large-scale, sculptural and dramatic, it didn’t just accessorize the clothing — it was integral to the story each look told. I reached out to Petra Slinkard, PEM’s coordinating curator for the exhibition, to ask if Andrew might be open to working with a local designer. Her response was instant: “Almost certainly, yes.” I then contacted Andrew directly and shared some images of Jade’s work, and he agreed it was a natural fit.
When I first revisited Andrew’s jewelry pieces, I immediately thought of Jade. There was a clear kinship between their work. As Andrew himself has said, “Gn is all about the chandelier earring,” and Jade is certainly not afraid of a dramatic shoulder duster. They even use some of the same materials. The connection felt authentic and exciting. Jade was thrilled — so much so that she sent a photo of herself in an Andrew Gn dress. She was already a fan, and it felt like the stars had aligned.
This collaboration is a true creative partnership between the museum, our featured fashion designer and a beloved local maker. Jade will closely study Andrew Gn’s designs both in the exhibition and in PEM’s collection, developing jewelry concepts that draw from his intricate patterns and signature silhouettes. These concepts will be shared with Andrew for feedback.
Q: Speaking of clothes, tell me about the vintage clothing collaboration and how you’ve showed it off so far.
A: Museum shops have traditionally leaned toward women's clothing and accessories — and historically, that made sense. Women were often the primary buyers in gift stores. But that focus created a bias in the industry, one that’s still visible today. Even in wholesale markets, it's surprisingly hard to find thoughtful, stylish gifts or clothing options for men beyond the usual tie, wallet or cufflinks — none of which reflect the modern needs or style of most people.
But to be honest, I don’t even think we should be thinking in terms of “men’s” or “women’s” clothing anymore. They’re just clothes, for anybody. We’re living in a time where there’s a much more enlightened understanding of gender expression, and frankly, it feels long overdue to stop gendering clothing altogether. The vintage clothes we’re offering through the PEM Shop and our Mercantile aren’t about fitting into a category. They’re about fit, quality and self-expression.
That’s one of the reasons I’m so excited about our new partnership with Picker Packer and Grumb, a local vintage clothier whose collection feels inclusive, expressive and wearable across the board. I first met Thomas, the person behind Picker Packer and Grumb, at the Salem Flea, and our fashion curator also suggested I take a look. I was immediately impressed by the eye and attention to detail that Thomas brings to his selections.
Q: Second-hand clothing might also be a surprising thing for people to find in a museum store. Why is vintage clothing a good fit for the PEM Shop?
A: Vintage shopping — or “thrifting,” as it’s more commonly known today — isn’t new, but it’s seeing a huge resurgence, especially among younger shoppers who are looking for more sustainable alternatives to fast fashion. And that’s great news. Choosing vintage means using what’s already in the world, giving beautiful garments new life and avoiding the waste and environmental damage that comes from overproduction and disposable trends.
What we aim to add to the equation is curation. That’s what museums do best — and it’s also what Thomas does so well. He doesn’t just stock vintage; he curates it meticulously. Each piece is chosen with care and an eye for style, fit and relevance. At the PEM Shop, we then build on that by offering accessories and styling options to help customers make each piece their own.
The buzz around this collaboration really came to life at the Salem Main Streets fashion show held here at PEM. PEM staff members of multiple genders modeled the looks — all worn fluidly and confidently. The energy was palpable. People were excited to see vintage styled in a contemporary, inclusive way that felt both wearable and expressive.
We see this as a roadmap for the future. Our hope is to continue collaborating with more vintage pickers and vintage curators, offering the very best of what’s already out there. It’s sustainable, it’s smart and — just like a museum — it’s all about celebrating design, history and craftsmanship.
Q: Are you planning any events around this new offering?
A: While Picker Packer and Grumb does not offer in-house tailoring, we’re excited to expand our vintage clothing initiative by partnering with a local tailor who specializes in vintage garments. This collaboration allows us to host special “vintage takeovers” at Marine Hall Mercantile, where customers can consult directly with a tailor and receive expert advice and alterations to ensure the best possible fit.
Custom tailoring is an increasingly rare service in today’s fast fashion world, especially for vintage garments — which often require a nuanced understanding of older fabrics, construction techniques and generous seam allowances. Offering this kind of personalized service brings tremendous value to our customers and aligns perfectly with our museum’s commitment to quality, craftsmanship and sustainability.
And no, this service won’t be available online! One of the joys of tailoring, especially with vintage, is that it’s an in-person experience. You need to touch the fabric, assess the fit and collaborate with someone who understands how to bring out the best in each garment. That’s part of the beauty of what we’re creating with these takeovers: a space where old-world craftsmanship meets contemporary style and care.
These events support our sustainability goals in a very real way. By helping people repair, alter and invest in existing clothing, we’re extending the life of garments and promoting mindful consumption. It’s a way of honoring what already exists, much like a museum preserves and reinterprets history.
So stay tuned for announcements about upcoming vintage clothing takeovers at Marine Hall Mercantile — you won’t want to miss them!
Q: You’ve acquired merchandise for a number of museums around New England. How do these collaborations specifically leverage the PEM brand while showcasing local talent, and why does this direction make sense to you?
A: Yes, I’ve been doing this for quite a while, and over the years I’ve seen some major shifts in how museum stores operate and how they connect with audiences. I’ve had the opportunity to lead purchasing at the Museum of Science in Boston, the Institute of Contemporary Art and the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. Each of those experiences shaped my understanding of what museum retail can and should be.
You can tell a great museum store by its book department. The best ones aren’t just about merchandise—they’re extensions of the museum experience, offering depth, discovery, and perspective you can take home. At PEM, that spirit of curiosity and breadth is everywhere—including the store. PEM isn’t like any museum I’ve worked at before; it doesn’t fit into a single category. Just in the past year, we’ve shown Saints and Sinners, Lovers and Fools: 300 Years of Flemish Masterworks, Narwhal: Revealing an Arctic Legend, Draw Me Ishmael: The Book Arts of Moby Dick, Augustina Woodgate’s installation, and Conjuring the Spirit World: Art, Magic, and Mediums. That means Renaissance art, science, contemporary art, history, and literature—all happening simultaneously.
The Museum of Science shop, in particular, was very much like what we’re doing now at PEM. It wasn’t just about souvenirs — it was about innovation. That shop spotlighted local inventors and offered fascinating, cutting-edge products from around the world. Some of those collaborations were so successful that they helped launch small businesses. That kind of meaningful intersection — where a museum can use its platform to support creators while offering visitors something special and story-driven — is why museum stores continue to be relevant.
At the PEM Shop and Marine Hall Mercantile, we’re building on that foundation and amplifying it. Our goal is to present the most innovative designers from the region and from around the globe along with the items that we source and make that represent and are inspired by the PEM collection. The tagline for Marine Hall Mercantile is “needful things from near and far,” and that’s exactly the spirit we’re cultivating. Like the early collectors who founded PEM, we look widely for interesting, beautiful and thoughtful objects to bring to our audience. But at the same time, we know you don’t always have to go far to find brilliance. Sometimes the most exciting talent is right next door.
By collaborating with local makers and designers, we’re not only showcasing their work — we’re also aligning them with PEM’s brand, legacy and global reach. These partnerships allow us to support sustainable, small-scale production while offering visitors something authentic and deeply connected to the museum experience.
It’s a direction that makes sense to me on every level: creatively, ethically and economically. We’re not just selling objects. We’re telling stories, building community and making space for innovation to thrive. And that’s exactly what a museum shop should do.
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