Exhibition

Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love

On view June 25, 2022 to November 6, 2022

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Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love celebrates the career and legacy of fashion designer Patrick Kelly (born in Vicksburg, Mississippi, 1954–1990). Based in Paris from 1979, Kelly was primarily self-taught and fearlessly drew inspiration from his experiences growing up in the American South, his Black heritage, his days in the New York and Paris club scenes, and his personal muses. His light-hearted and sophisticated designs pushed racial and cultural boundaries, asserted Black empowerment, and were rooted in expressions of love and joy. The exhibition was first presented at the Philadelphia Museum of Art in 2014 and revised for presentation at the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco. The exhibition at PEM situates Kelly and his work in the broader context of art and fashion history by exploring the impulses behind his designs, his significant collection of racist memorabilia (images of which he repurposed to tell his own story), and footage from his exuberant and groundbreaking fashion shows.

First presented by the Philadelphia Museum of Art in 2014, and reconstituted by the de Young, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco in 2021, the exhibition presents more than 75 fully accessorized runway ensembles, dating from 1984 to 1989.

Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love is organized by the Philadelphia Museum of Art in collaboration with the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

The exhibition is made possible by the generosity of Carolyn and Peter S. Lynch and The Lynch Foundation, Angus and Leslie Littlejohn, and Susan and Appy Chandler. Additional support was provided by individuals who support the Exhibition Incubation Fund: Jennifer and Andrew Borggaard, James B. and Mary Lou Hawkes, Kate and Ford O'Neil, and Henry and Callie Brauer. We also recognize the generosity of the East India Marine Associates of the Peabody Essex Museum.

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TOP IMAGE: Patrick Kelly’s Fall/Winter 1988–1989 advertising campaign. Photo by Oliviero Toscani. Courtesy of the Estate of Patrick Kelly. Scan by Randy Dodson/Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

This award-winning documentary, Patrick Kelly: An American in Paris, traces the brief creative life of the artist who forever changed fashion.

This exhibit opened at PEM right at a time when it sometimes feels like hope is scarce.

– WBUR

Designed by Patrick Kelly, Woman's Dress (detail), Fall/Winter 1986-87. Wool and spandex knit, plastic buttons. Philadelphia Museum of Art: Gift of Bjorn Guil Amelan and Bill T. Jones in honor of Monica Brown, 2015-201-124. Image Courtesy of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Designed by Patrick Kelly, Woman’s Ensemble: Coat and Dress, Fall/Winter 1986-87, Woman’s Dresses, Fall/Winter 1986-87 and Fall/Winter 1988-89. Philadelphia Museum of Art: Gift of Bjorn Guil Amelan and Bill T. Jones in honor of Monica Brown, 2015, 2015-201-29a,b, 2015-201-124, 2014-207-11. Image Courtesy of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Portrait of Patrick Kelly. Photo by Oliviero Toscani. Courtesy of the Estate of Patrick Kelly. Scan by Randy Dodson / Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

Patrick Kelly’s Fall/Winter 1989–1990 advertising campaign. Photo by Oliviero Toscani. Courtesy of the Estate of Patrick Kelly. Scan by Randy Dodson/Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

Patrick Kelly’s Spring/Summer 1988 advertising campaign. Photo by Oliviero Toscani. Courtesy of the Estate of Patrick Kelly. Scan by Randy Dodson/Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

Patrick Kelly as seen on America’s Black Forum, November 5–6, 1988. Courtesy of the Estate of Patrick Kelly. Scan by Randy Dodson/Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

Curator Interview

FROM THE GUEST BOOK

“Inspiring. I now want to be a fashion designer.”

FROM THE GUEST BOOK

“This was everything. Inspiration and hope my soul desperately needed. Thank you, Patrick Kelly.”

FROM THE GUEST BOOK

“Thank you for letting me relive my teen years.”

FROM THE GUEST BOOK

“Thank you for exposing me to a beautiful soul and fabulous art that I didn’t know anything about before.”

Exhibition Catalogue Available Now

Patrick Kelly Runway of Love

Generously illustrated with hundreds of images of runway photography, garments on mannequins, and never-before-published archival materials, this book is an unprecedented exploration of Patrick Kelly’s influential career. Visit the Museum Shop in person or online.